FASHION DESIGNERS HISTORY HAS FORGOTTEN
- Carol H.D
- Mar 25, 2020
- 4 min read
Updated: Apr 30
Fashion history is one of my favorite subjects. Observing and learning how clothing has evolved as society evolved is something that seems precious to me and that gives a lot to think about. When I read or study topics about fashion history, I always end up reflecting on the importance of clothing, how important clothing is to communicate and transmit. The concept of fashion didn´t emerge until 1910 when Charles Frederick Worth (father of fashion) began to sign his designs and market them, thus creating the brand concept. Before this date, there were only the known “uses of clothing” for the different social classes.
It´s very curious to see how, throughout history, the human being has always, through clothing and accessories, wanted to feel identified with a group but at the same time wanted to be different. This need for individuality within a global society is well explained by the German sociologist and philosopher Georg Simmel in his book Art and Civilization. In this book Simmel states: "What distinguishes fashion from most institutions and social practices that reject the present and turn to the past or the future, is that fashion always looks at the present." It´s true that fashion always looks at the present and adapts to the society of each moment.
Fashion designers are in charge of making this magic happen. We are always attentive that our ideas and creations always go according to the present moment, to what contemporary people want to express when they dress. Thinking about all this, I decided to create this post. Throughout this history of fashion, there have been a large number of designers who thought about their present, about their society, and yet many of them are complete strangers. I suppose that as Darwin said, everything depends on the survival of the fittest. Who doesn't know Coco Chanel in the 20's, Elsa Schiaparelli in the 30's, Dior in the 50's ...? and with them a long list of designers from different eras. This little post wants to pay tribute to all those designers who in their days had something to communicate with their designs but were not so famous. Let's start!
Jeanne Paquin: This designer introduced the first “empire-cut” dress in 1906, three years before Paul Poiret and the same thing happened with the kimono coat years later. Was it copied or inspired by your Poiret creations? Paquin was always ahead of Poiret but was unable to communicate with the clientele. She was the first designer to organize a fashion show, as it is known today, at the Palace Theater in London in 1914. After the First World War she decided to retire.
Edward Molyneux: Only Irishman dedicated to Haute Couture. We owe him the women's tailor suit to wear during the day (3/4 skirt, jacket and coat) or the creation of the Little Black Dress in 1930. His signature grew until it closed in 1950 after the Second World War.
Madame Grés: This German designer can be considered the queen of draping. Her frustration at not becoming a sculpture awoke in her the draping of all kinds of fabrics. All of his designs were white and looked like true Greek robes. His atelier was open from 1934 to 1942 after the Nazi occupation of Paris.
Jacques Fath: He started as a hatter and debuted in 1947 as a designer. He was the first fracés to break with the fashion schemes of the time and created a sportwear collection that he exported to the USA. He knew how to connect very well with the Hollywood actresses of the time. He became especially famous for making actress Rita Hayworth's wedding dress. His firm closed after his death in 1957.
Emanuel Úngaro: He started working for Balenciaga. In 1965 he began to work on his own in the midst of the futurism trend. His work stands out for the perfect combination of prints.
Guy Laroche: He started out as a hatter. In 1956 he settled in Paris to dedicate himself to Prêt-a-Potter. From the beginning, he opted to use vibrant colors (pink, orange, turquoise and topaz) and low sizes on the back and necks. His designs sold very well in department stores likePrintemps o El Corte Inglés.
Bill Blass: Specializing in the most conservative society, he stood out for combining sober evening dresses with knitted sweaters, breaking certain rules and demonstrating that day and night could be united in a single look in an elegant and sophisticated way.
Romeo Gigli: Italian designer who represented poetry and romanticism in fashion in times of the mid 80's. Going against the current allowed him to dress the elite of the moment. Her delicate garments were inspired by nature and painting, creating bohemian, mysterious and elegant looks.
Katherine Hammett: The design of XXL T-shirts with messages of radical political ideals led her to success. Her way of understanding fashion was as a means of denouncing social injustices.
Jil Sander: An expert in minimalist fashion, she managed to provide women with great self-confidence in the face of the complicated labor and social panorama of the 90s. For her designers she used luxurious fabrics and comfortable patterns with perfect finishes.
There are many more designers who did not achieve the success they deserved in their time, but I hope you liked this selection for this post. I also hope that this post serves as a cultural distraction in these hard days of confinement. I invite you to share it and comment which story has surprised you the most.
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